Diamond Cuts and Shapes

A diamond’s sparkle and silhouette are two of the first things that catch someone’s eye—which is why paying attention to diamond cuts and shapes is so important. Read on for some of the most popular options to consider, from fancy-shaped stones to round solitaires with timeless appeal.

Diamond Cut vs. Shape

DIAMOND CUT VS. SHAPE

While the terms “diamond cut” and “diamond shape” are oftentimes used interchangeably, they are actually not the same. Diamond cut refers to the arrangement of a diamond’s facets (or surfaces) and how they interact with light. This interaction directly impacts three main qualities of a stone: its brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

  • “Brilliance” refers to the presence of white light reflected against a diamond’s facets (i.e., how much it shines).
  • “Fire” refers to how light is dispersed into a rainbow of hues throughout the stone due to refraction—an effect that gives the diamond dazzling flecks of color.
  • “Scintillation” refers to the amount of sparkle a diamond has as it moves.
  • An “ideal” diamond cut represents the highest standard with perfect depth and width, plus pristine angles to maximize a stone’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation. Alternatively, deep-cut diamonds don’t reflect light as well and can look dull in comparison. Shallow diamonds lack the depth needed to properly reflect light and can even exhibit a fish-eye effect beneath the table facet.

The cut is one of the most important considerations for choosing a diamond engagement ring, and you can expect to spend more for a well-cut stone. The Gemological Institute of America uses a diamond grading scale to group stones based on their cuts with labels ranging from “Ideal” and “Excellent” to “Very Good,” “Good,” “Fair,” and “Poor.” Ideal- and excellent-cut diamonds will provide maximum sparkle and shine.

Diamond shape refers to the diamond’s geometric outline (think round, heart, or pear). These shapes are commonly grouped into two categories: round diamonds and non-round (or fancy-shaped) diamonds. Fancy shapes include oval, cushion, princess, pear, emerald, marquise, Asscher, radiant, and heart-shaped diamonds.

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Diamond Shapes

ROUND

ROUND

A timeless choice known for its incredible sparkle and shine, the round brilliant-cut diamond is the most popular cut for contemporary engagement rings. In fact, round diamonds account for almost 75% of all diamond sales. Made with 58 facets, round-cut diamonds reflect light better than any other diamond shape. They also pair well with halo settings and side stones for extra radiance.

Princess

PRINCESS

The princess-cut diamond pairs the signature beauty of a round diamond with the Art Deco charm of emerald and square shapes. This four-sided fancy-cut ring is the second most popular diamond shape and produces less waste during the cutting process, which makes it a more economical choice. In fact, princess-cut diamond rings with the same carat weights as round-cut diamond rings are generally more affordable since they require less material removal.

Cushion

CUSHION

Intricately designed with rounded corners and larger facets, a cushion-cut diamond combines the brilliance of round and oval stones with a four-sided shape for extra allure. This style is reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties and offers vintage appeal, while its shape also helps disguise inclusions.

Emerald

EMERALD

Emerald diamonds are an exceptionally beautiful choice with rectangular builds and intricately cut corners. Also known as step-cut diamonds due to the stair-like appearance of their pavilion planes, emerald cuts were originally reserved for emerald gemstones and later adopted for diamond rings. The emerald-cut diamond is oftentimes more expensive than other cuts, as its unforgiving cut requires a high-quality diamond with better color and clarity grades.

Oval

OVAL

Much like round diamonds, oval cuts are a dazzling choice with 57–58 facets and a large surface area that beautifully reflects light. This shape is slightly more elongated than round diamonds, which makes it particularly flattering on the hand. An oval-cut diamond also looks slightly larger than it is, which makes it a great choice for budget-conscious shoppers.

Pear

PEAR

Also commonly known as a teardrop cut, a pear-shaped diamond is an elegant and eye-catching option with both a rounded base and a marquise-shaped pointed end. Its elongated pear cut creates a slimming effect on the hand. You can wear this style either up or down, although it’s traditionally worn with the pointed end facing toward the fingertips.

Marquise

MARQUISE

With a vintage feel, marquise-shaped diamonds boast an elongated shape with 58 facets for scintillating style. Its unique cut actually enhances the appearance of the stone and makes it look larger than its carat weight. This makes it a perfect option for anyone who wants a larger stone without the matching price tag. It’s also a romantic choice thanks to its origins, as King Louis XV of France had the marquise-cut diamond made for the Marquise of Pompadour with a shape inspired by her exceptional beauty and perfect lips.

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